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On the menu:
Tipsheet I: Tricks & Techniques for Perfectly Flaky and Tender Scones
Homemade “Clotted Cream” Thick, luscious clotted cream is a must-have accompaniment to scones. Not readily available here, here’s a scrumptious alternative homemade version
Strawberry Rosewater Preserves Hauntingly perfumed and beautifully hued, these strawberry preserves belong in a special league of their own
Passionfruit Curd An elegant and aromatic fruit curd that is spectacular served with scones or toast. Also great for using to fill cakes, cookies and tarts
Confiture de Lait Caramelized milk jam, also known as dulce de leche or cajeta, is indulgent with scones or toast. Also great as a sauce for ice cream, or for using to fill cakes, cookies and tarts
Salmon Rillettes A luxurious potted fish pâté made of smoked salmon and poached fresh salmon. Divine with a hearty, rustic bread like soda bread
Think bread and butter.
Or peas and carrots.
Chips and malt vinegar (and is that a whiff of tabloid newsprint?), maybe.
Cookies and milk, definitely.
Salt and caramel, say hmm hmmm.
Others, we perceive of as as different as chalk and cheese, and never the twain shall meet. Or maybe. Perhaps in a clandestine tryst at the secret locale of some pop-up private supper club. Or the not-so-guerilla setting of a much feted destination where tables for the 6 month season sell out in under a day.
What could possibly faze an eating audience that basks in the aftermath of an era that has been open minded about, nay embraced, everything from bacon & egg ice cream to white asparagus with lemon marshmallow?
Vive la différence.
Case in point, chocolate plus lemon. It's a combination I absolutely adore, and know of others who do too. Many others, however, need a little persuasion.
And this Chocolate Lemon Ganache & Butter Shortbread Bar has done the persuading many a time. The dark chocolate ganache filling (using Valrhona Manjari 64% Dark Chocolate), looking all innocuously all-chocolatey, surprises with its depth of lemony zing, thanks to a heady combination of lemon zest, lemon juice and pure lemon extract.
It's oddly accommodating too. Serving it to chocolate lovers? Finish with a few restrained strips of candied lemon peel.
Catering to lemon lovers? Try the gutsy garnish of Lemon Confit. For aficionados of citrus flavoured desserts, these candied lemon slices are a truly fabulous and delicious garnish.
*Both recipes are part of the lineup in Fruit Desserts, a demo class I'll be teaching on 13 March 2010 , 14 March 2010 , 27 March 2010 and 28 March 2010. For all inquiries, please call the school at +65 6479 8442 or 6479 8414, or email shermaycs@yahoo.com.sg
Cleverness is an overrated virtue.
Keeping it simple is perhaps the hardest lesson to learn of all. The more avid the cook, the harder the lesson, it seems. What do you yearn to eat when you're tired or hungry or in need of soul food? Cooking that honestly strives to nurture and glorify the essential savours of good ingredients, thus coaxing the very best from them? Or fussy, egotistical exercises in let's be brutally honest here vanity and self-absorption? Which is not to say the latter can't be good to eat. Just that it's all too easy to get carried away by flights of fancy, thus losing sight of the main object, which is to nourish and beatify those who sup at your table.
Call a spade a spade, and the emperor's new clothes just that. Cleverness for the sake of cleverness? Please, leave that to the clever. Me? I'm happy to take steak frites slathered in béarnaise over overwrought faux comestibles any day (speaking of keeping it real, please do check out Au Bœuf Couronné if you ever get the chance; it is unrelenting, time-stood-still old-school, proudly unfashionable beefy magnificence à la française at its probable best).
Luckily, I sometimes need to feed cake to manly men, W often included. Which helps keep my frilly excesses in check. I speak from experience; no manly man will be caught dead tucking into a pink-iced, frou-frou, over-the-top, Marie-Antoinette-meets-Mardi Gras confection. Unless he is doing so in the midst of a very private (read: party of one) midnight fridge raid. Which translates into a lot of forlorn cake lying about in the fridge.
So if you bake often and often for your manly male loved ones, that alone is reason aplenty to keep it fuss-free.
Sans the chintzy plate shown above, with a plain white plate in lieu, I've often served this simple and simply beautiful Pistachio Torte - moist with freshly ground pistachios, fruity olive oil and citrus juices - accompanied by rose-scented strawberries and whipped cream, to many an uncomplaining in fact I daresay pud-admiring male diner. Nary a peep about how real men don't eat things with rosewater.
Life is short.
Fat tastes awesome.
So much so, it makes other stuff taste awesome.
Why shortchange yourself of one of the very reasons for eating, nay living?
OK, now that that particular opinion is out of the way. The only thing I possibly love more than butter?
Browned butter.
-Vogue, June 2009 issue. Jeffrey Steingarten has a fantastic feature on the stuff. Read an excerpt here.
-Jennifer McLagan's Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredients, with Recipes . Many ideas on how to use browned butter. And while we're on the subject of the much-maligned three-letter F-word, how to get the best out of everything from schmaltz to graisse de canard, not to mention lard, suet and tallow.
As for the best use of browned butter? In my opinion, that has to be in the financier. These Plum & Hazelnut Financiers – crisp and chewy of crust, rich and moist of crumb – owe their sublime, nutty, caramelized flavour to browned butter.
*Both the recipes for the pistachio cake and plum & hazelnut financiers are part of the lineup in Fruit Desserts, a demo class I'll be teaching on 13 March 2010 , 14 March 2010 , 27 March 2010 and 28 March 2010. For all inquiries, please call the school at +65 6479 8442 or 6479 8414, or email shermaycs@yahoo.com.sg
Packaged in little glass jars, ceramic pots or plain ol' plastic, you'll find a yoghurt to suit every taste and budget. If at the supermarket, you will of course find lurking in the midst the kind of carton featuring gums or gelatine or other thickeners designed to create the illusion of creaminess, flavoured with a dash of ethylvanillin to boot, as if your palate needed further clarification concluding that the guck is indeed a synthetic substance not anywhere to be found in nature. But by and large, there's a fair bit of good stuff, the kind of stuff that comes to mind when we think of European or French style yoghurt. Of the more readily available brands, I am especially partial to La Fermière. Super creamy and naturally so, made from the best quality whole milk and cream, with an unbelievably plush mouthfeel, it's the kind of yoghurt that self-professed inveterate yoghurt-haters happily make an exception for; I should know, I live with one.
* I will be teaching Fruit Desserts, a demo class, on 13 March 2010 , 14 March 2010 , 27 March 2010 and 28 March 2010. For all inquiries, please call the school at +65 6479 8442 or 6479 8414, or email shermaycs@yahoo.com.sg
On the menu:
Chocolate Lemon Ganache & Butter Shortbread Bars The dark chocolate ganache filling (using Valrhona Manjari 64% Dark Chocolate) surprises with its depth of lemony zing, thanks to a heady combination of lemon zest, lemon juice and pure lemon extract
Lemon Confit These candied lemon slices are a delicious garnish for any citrus flavoured dessert, for instance the Lemon Custard & Butter Shortbread Bars or Chocolate Lemon Ganache & Butter Shortbread Bars
Blueberry & Greek Yoghurt Sherbet Just as wonderful whether served on its own or alongside Blueberry & Sour Cream Streusel Cake
Pistachio Torte A beautiful pistachio cake that is lovely paired with:
Rose-Scented Strawberries and Rose-Scented Whipped Cream
Plum & Hazelnut Financiers These elegant little tea cakes – crisp and chewy of crust, rich and moist of crumb – owe their sublime flavour to beurre noisette (browned butter)
There are many regional recipes for the making of congee; some are rice-based, some not, and yet some use a mixture of rice and other grains. Some start with raw rice, others specify the use of leftover cooked rice. The style in which our amah cheh made her congee, the style I was weaned on and identify with and crave, was classically southern Chinese. A mixture of two types of rice (regular long-grained white plus glutinous) slowly, slowly simmered in a vast volume of water until transformed into velvety, unctuous comfort food. No mere sustenance, this, but the penultimate restorative, a homebrewed cureall, a magical unguent to cosset the body and salve the soul. Be it the nourishment of the very young or the very old, or the nursing back to wellness of the ill, or the simple soothing of frayed nerves, there are few things that are entrusted with rising to the occasion like congee, especially if you, like me, are Chinese in ethnicity.
As a student at college half a world away from home, congee became an antidote to the occasional bout of homesickness. Till this day, whenever I've had an especially long or trying day, there is nothing I long to eat more. W had been under the weather recently, so we'd been tucking into congee suppers - gai juk (chicken congee), pei dan sau yuk juk (preserved egg and pork congee), or yu juk (fish congee) - pretty often the last couple of weeks.
Not everyone digs pei dan. And not everyone has access to super duper fresh fish, an absolute non-negotiable for yu juk, preferably slaughtered and filleted earlier in the day at the wet market, my personal preference for using in yu juk is either grass carp or snakehead (locally known as toman). So the recipe that follows is for gai juk. Some preliminary notes:
Rice I use a combination of two rices; one for taste, the other for texture, in a two-to-one ratio. First, a fragrant long grain, preferably hom mali. This translates from Thai to "fragrant jasmine", although the aroma (hom) is really redolent of pandan and not jasmine. Mali, the reference to jasmine, is meant to describe the opalescent sheen of the grain rather than the scent. The subtle yet distinctive hom mali perfume makes an important difference to the final flavour of the congee. Second, a glutinous rice (sticky rice), as its high-amylopectin/low-amylose constitutional makeup greatly enhances creaminess.
Yields about 4 servings
100 gm Long grain rice
50 gm Glutinous rice
1 Tbsp Toasted white sesame oil
2.5 litres Chicken stock, or water
1 tsp Coarse sea salt, or to taste
Half a small chicken (about 400 to 450 gm)
A slice of young ginger (about 1cm-thick)
Garnishes:
Tong chai (salt-preserved Tianjin cabbage pickle)
Fried shallots
Scallions, finely sliced
Coriander sprigs
Toasted white sesame oil
1. Combine the two rices in a large bowl. Wash and drain three times under water, each time swishing the rice around whilst rubbing the grains between your fingers.
2. Place washed rice in a heavy-bottomed pot with a capacity of about 5 litres. Coat grains with the sesame oil. Add the stock (or water), salt, chicken and ginger.
3. Bring to the boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and cover. The liquid should simmer at the merest blip; use a heat diffuser/tamer mat if necessary. Cook for 2 hours, stirring occasionally to prevent the rice from sticking to the bottom of the pot and scorching. The rice will have "blossomed" (the grains will have swelled and split). Remove the chicken and set aside. Continue cooking the congee for another 1 hour, stirring occasionally, until it is thick, creamy and almost smooth. Taste; season with more salt to taste if necessary.
4. Meanwhile, once the chicken is cool enough to handle, shred the flesh into medium sized pieces. Discard the skin and bones. Set the chicken shreds aside.
5. When the congee is ready, turn the heat off. Discard the ginger. Heat large soup bowls by pouring boiling water into the bowls then pouring away the water. Ladle the porridge into the heated bowls. Top each serving with chicken shreds, and a pinch each of tong chai, fried shallots, scallions and coriander. Finish with a drizzle of toasted white sesame oil. Serve immediately.
I've never been much good at keeping my New Year's resolutions. But there's one resolution in particular that I've made year after year and broken - rather blithely too, I may add - as many times.
I must, I must buy less cookbooks.
Bah, humbug.
Year after year, it's not so much newfound virtuous intent that spurs me to make that doomed resolution. More like the fear that one fine day in the not-too-distant future those poor particleboard shelves whose load bearing capacity I constantly (and foolhardily) test will finally give way.
Buy another bookcase? Sadly, no can do. As it is, we're virtually walking tippy toe through corridors. Much to my dismay, there's simply no more space to shoehorn in another bookcase.
Besides, it will simply fill in double quick time, thus forcing one to come to grips with the reality that one has issues beyond just being spatially-challenged. The official designated cookbook-shoring stacked-two deep bookshelves aside, there're the sprawling stacks on my bedside table, in my study, on the kitchen counter. These stacks...these stacks have taken on a life of their own. What really started off as a way to disguise new cookbook purchases so the shelves don't look quite so crammed have grown higgledy piggledy squatter style into densely populated semi-permanent settlements.
At some point a couple of years back after the 500-book mark was passed, I stopped keeping tabs. Frankly, I am afraid to know. To put a number on it would be to quantify, to put a face to, the magnitude of my problem. Were I to cook a 5-course meal for lunch and dinner respectively everyday without ever cooking a single recipe twice, I'm going to have to live (and cook) till I'm 113 and then some to truthfully claim to have made some inroads into cooking through those books, let's not even speak of amortization.
So this year, rather than lie to myself and vow to buy less cookbooks, I've resolved instead to become a more discriminating cookbook shopper. Gone are the days (and bookshelf realty) that I can buy a cookbook on a whim, for whatever idiosyncratic reason. Henceforth, a book must possess several merits and not just one before I'll bring it home with me. Chiefly:
Form Is it attractive? Do I love the cover/photography/illustrations/food styling/prop styling/typography/layout/design/authorial voice?
Function Are there at least a handful of recipes I am keen to cook from? Would I like to learn more about the cuisine/ingredient/technique that's the subject of the book? Are the instructions written clearly? Are too many of the recipes tricky to attempt because they call for hard-to-find ingredients and/or esoteric equipment? If book in question is another book on well-represented subjects (eg. chocolate or bread or French or Italian or how to poach an egg/truss a chicken/de-bone a trotter), does it excessively replicate ground already comprehensively (and better) covered in material I currently own?
A cookbook should boast of at least 2 attributes (ideally one from each category) before I'll call it mine. It's hardly a tall order, but I am hoping the act of simply pausing to consider the place a said book has in one's collection will go a long way towards keeping profligate purchasing in check.
Wish me luck!
I for one am truly looking forward to 2010 for all sorts of reasons, firstly because I'll be kicking off my teaching calendar with the return of a familiar favourite - this macaron and biscotti class is back; to all the lovely ladies who requested its return, thank you very much and I look forward to seeing you. Only 2 sessions of this demo class have been scheduled, on 9 January 2010(Saturday) and 10 January 2010(Sunday) at Shermay's Cooking School. For inquiries, please call +65 6479 8442 or email shermaycs@yahoo.com.sg
Another reason, of course, is that I'm also looking forward to the week thereafter as we'd re-scheduled our break to January. While there're few cities as breathtaking as la ville-lumière in December, and I'm sorry to be missing it, January brings with it the consolation prize of hitting les soldes d'hiver like a gale moving at speeds off the Beaufort scale, not a trifling consideration if you have a bit of a retail therapy thing.
But really, that aside, I am psyched to appreciate the austere beauty of the city in late winter, far from the madding crowds. In Hemingway's soul-stirring words from A Moveable Feast,
When we came back to Paris it was clear and cold and lovely. The city had accommodated itself to winter, there was good wood for sale at the wood and coal place across our street, and there were braziers outside of many of the good cafes so that you could keep warm on the terraces. Our own apartment was warm and cheerful. We burned boulets which were molded, egg-shaped lumps of coal dust, on the wood fire, and on the streets the winter light was beautiful. Now you were accustomed to see the bare trees against the sky and you walked on the fresh-washed gravel paths through the Luxembourg gardens in the clear sharp wind. The trees were beautiful without their leaves when you were reconciled to them, and the winter winds blew across the surfaces of the ponds and the fountains were blowing in the bright light.
Seeing as there is simply no homemade substitute that comes even remotely close to replicating the mysterious flavour, colour and texture of milk's favourite cookie, and believe you me I have tried, it's hard to be a stickler to the from-scratch principles you generally try to respect. In short, there's no reason to feel like you're cheating because all it takes to make this particular ice cream add-in is plucking that familiar bright blue package right off the supermarket aisle, ripping it open, coarsely crushing the contents and et voilà - you're ready to rock out with the ice cream machine.
We had company over for dinner last night, held in celebration of our good friend J's birthday. The ice cream pies, replete with candles, were served in lieu of a conventional birthday cake. I had used individual tartlet pans to mold the cookie crumb crust, but you can just as easily use one large pan. Either way, it's awesome with hot fudge sauce. And instead of cookies and cream ice cream pie, the ice cream can just as easily be used to sandwich chocolate cake layers to construct a cookies and cream ice cream cake.
Yields about 8 servings
360 gm Whipping cream
360 gm Whole milk
6 Large egg yolks (each from a 60gm egg)
135 gm Caster sugar
1/2 tsp Fine salt
2 tsp Vanilla extract
10 Oreo cookies, coarsely crushed
- Bring the cream and milk to a simmer over medium heat in a medium saucepan.
- While the cream mixture is being heated, whisk together the egg yolks, caster sugar and salt in a medium bowl.
- Remove saucepan from the heat and slowly drizzle about one-quarter of the cream mixture in a thin stream into the egg yolk mixture while whisking constantly. Once incorporated, pour the mixture in the bowl back into the saucepan with the rest of the hot cream mixture, whisking constantly.
- Place a fine-meshed sieve or chinois over a clean bowl and place this close by to the stove. Place the saucepan over low heat and immediately begin to stir the custard with a spatula, being sure to scrape the edges and bottom of the pan. Stir constantly until the custard has sufficiently thickened. If you are using a thermometer, the custard is ready when it reaches a temperature of 170 °F. Alternatively, do the “spoon-coating consistency” test – dip the spatula into the custard, withdraw the spatula, and run your finger across the spatula; the custard is ready when your finger leaves a clearly defined trail across the custard-coated spatula. If not (the custard is still runny), cook for longer and keep testing until the consistency is right.
- Once the custard is ready, immediately take the saucepan off the heat and strain its contents through the sieve or chinois into the bowl in order to eliminate any stray strands of coagulated egg and ensure a perfectly smooth custard. Stir the vanilla extract into the strained custard.
- Press cling wrap right against the surface of the custard to prevent a skin from forming, let cool, then chill the custard in the refrigerator until thoroughly cold, at least 4 hours and preferably overnight.
- Churn the custard in the ice cream machine, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Once the ice cream attains a soft-serve consistency, add the coarsely crushed Oreos. Transfer the ice cream to a freezer-proof airtight container and store in the freezer to firm up sufficiently before scooping/serving. Depending on the efficiency of the freezer, this will take about 4 hours.
Storage: Homemade ice cream will keep well for about 1 week in the freezer if properly stored in an airtight container. However, the texture is ideal and at its best if served within 48 hours.
Double shame on me, because it wasn't as if I grew up surrounded by clutter. Far from, in fact.
I know of no other woman more formidably organized when it comes to keeping house. From ensuring that every single little itty bitty teensy weensy nook and cranny was spotlessly clean, no mean feat in an old rambling bungalow, to coming up with ingenious storage solutions for shoring up the things she judged to be of potential future usefulness or sentimental value (which pretty much covers if not everything then let's just say a whole lot), her meticulousness and fastidiousness knew no bounds.
And so, in silly and rather juvenile reaction I'm afriad, I used to make it a point of pride to be a ruthless streamliner, a declutterer, a tosser-outter. Callously, zealously, methodically and periodically divesting, purging, ridding anything and everything - some of which I'll today confess to having done so much to my everlasting regret - which supposedly threw off-balance what I deemed to be the golden ratio between one's possessions and white space.
As I've gotten older, I like to think I've mellowed somewhat from the hardliner I used to be. Ok, I understate. As I've gotten older, I've gotten increasingly comfortable with setting my inner magpie free. Ah, the irresistable siren song of shiny objects both literal and figurative, be they cookbooks, shoes or yet another cakepan or cocotte or comport without which life couldn't possibly be complete. And I seem, more and more so, incapable of tossing anything out. Mummy dearest, I humbly eat my words. Nature abhors a vacuum, and no where is this scientific truth more apparent than the extent to which my shelves and cabinets are strained. Funnily enough, one could say without exaggeration that the way they've held up virtually defies the laws of physics and load bearing conventional wisdom.
Alright, enough of lamentation at my lack of horizontal surfaces on which to store objects.
A pretty-in-pink birthday cake for a very pretty little girl, C, thanks to her fabulous, loving and very indulgent mother, S. This adorable princess turned 3 in August - I know, this post is way overdue! - and I had the immense pleasure of crafting the cake.
The repeating floral motif is based on a scrap of vintage flocked wallpaper I had picked up and stowed away in my secret box(es) of pretty, shiny, inspiring and otherwise awesome things - in other words, the rationalized, compartmentalized manifestation of aforementioned magpie syndrome. In my (feeble) defense, it can on occasion come in rather handy, like when making pretty cakes for pretty girls.
Beneath the pink and floral facade? Essentially, a luxe strawberry shortcake - layers of vanilla seed-flecked buttery yellow cake sandwiched with billows of whipped mascarpone cream and succulent homemade strawberry preserves. The tall layer cake was then frosted with a silken coat of Swiss meringue buttercream, flavoured with fresh strawberry puree, which also serves to tint the buttercream the merest of lovely dusky pink.
Yesterday, I spent the better part of the afternoon with 2 grande dames, sisters, whose nonagenarian mother passed away 2 years ago, very shortly afterwhich their father followed suit. Treasure your parents, they are priceless, you don't tell them often enough just how much you love them and are thankful for...I was all choked up, but fortunately - extremely so, I realize - for me, I could still dial home and try to articulate, clumsily, an approximation of just how much I give thanks.
The crunchy shortbread pastry used for all the tart shells here is an unconventional recipe based on melted butter. It is extremely easy to handle, can either be rolled with a pin or pressed into the tart pan, is used for one grand tart case or a flurry of tartlet cases, and can boast of a buttery deliciousness all unto itself really.
Celestial caramelly goodness? Check.
Very buttery awesomeness? Check.
Sly salty savour? Check.
Fabulous crunch of toasted nuts. Can't stop at one. Worth contributing to my enthodondist's kid's ivy league college fund for. Check, check, check.
Nut toffee/brittle type candy, in the immortal words of the inimitable Elizabeth Barrett Browning, How do I love thee? Let me count the ways.
But the peerlessly perfect likes of you, how dare I mere mortal pretend to comprehend the true breadth and depth of your myriad special talents?
As much as I adore shards of you atop said cheesecake, a literal and metaphorical crowning glory, all jade green teardrop gorgeousness embedded in amber, I truly fail to see how any other mere mortal, unless he/she be of an unspeakable churlishness, could possibly fail to be thrilled to be in receipt of you and you alone, unadorned and unadorning, as homemade holiday gift.
More-ish quotient aside, there's that aforementioned stunning jade green-plus-amber comeliness and many fetching talents, chief amongst which I must profess a particular fondness for coarsely crushing and sprinkling fairy dust-like over all manner of ice creams, mousses, parfaits, custards and even just plain ripe fruit plus clouds of whipped cream for elegant textural contrast. Or boring old me, simply eating as candy.
Anyways, any which way, you rock.
P.S: Pumpkin Seed Toffee is part of the bonus section of the recipe pack for Holiday Desserts 2009, a demo class at Shermay's Cooking School held on 7 November (Saturday), 8 November(Sunday), 21 November (Saturday) and 22 November(Sunday). For all inquiries, please call the school at +65 6479 8442 or email shermaycs@yahoo.com.sg.
P.P.S: Last 2 sessions for Holiday Cookies 2009 are round the corner on 24 October (Saturday) and 25 October (Sunday) .
P.P.P.S: After my third glass - on this particular balmy evening, it's an Antinori Tignanello 2005, a yummy supertuscan soon to be washing down bistecca alla fiorentina...can't wait, haven't had a real hunk of memorable real beef recently! - I really do start to channel my inner thwarted Eng Lit major, so please do excuse me...
Between the Holiday Cookie Class and this, I sincerely hope there're ideas aplenty to inspire a happy bout of holiday entertaining and/or a hamperful of homebaked gifts and treats!
On the menu:
Pumpkin Seed Toffee Buttery caramel candy shards studded with pumpkin seeds – the ideal finishing touch for Pumpkin Cheesecake or simply to enjoy alone as candy
Spiced Rum & Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla Bean Crème Anglaise Luxurious custard perfumed with dark rum, Christmas spices, and vanilla bean – a lovely accompaniment for Pumpkin Cheesecake or Applesauce Cake
Salted Caramel & Dark Chocolate Tart Rich, buttery caramel spiked with artisanal sea salt layered with dark chocolate ganache (using Valrhona Manjari 64% Dark Chocolate)
Raspberry &White Chocolate Tart White chocolate ganache (using Valrhona Ivoire 35% White Chocolate) layered with raspberry preserves and fresh raspberries
Malted Milk Chocolate Tart Malted milk chocolate ganache (using Valrhona Jivara Lactée 40% Milk Chocolate) in a shortbread tart shell
Much as I love them, who needs a Diptyque scented candle? If the holiday class preparatory periods seasons past are anything to go by, the toasty scent of Christmas spices, rounded out by a touch of sugar plums and a topnote of chocolate, will permeate my kitchen (and rest of the apartment really) in the coming months. Luckily, it is a sugar-and-spice scent I adore, and associate with all things nice, so I really couldn't be more thrilled! It is a joyous and uplifting scent, and I daresay one of the biggest reasons why so many of us who love baking in general, love holiday baking in particular!
Anyways, I wanted to put up some pictures of the bonus recipes and ideas included within the recipe pack, in addition to the core demonstrated recipes seen here. They include:
Sticky Date Pockets
A sticky date filling is encased by a friable cinnamon-and-vanilla scented pastry. The look of these (see picture at beginning of post) somewhat reminds of miniature mincemeat pies, and are in fact the ideal treat to proffer in lieu of those should you find yourself serving non-mincemeat eaters!
A raisin and candied lemon peel filling enveloped by lemon scented pastry, and a definite winner with lemon lovers.
A crisp brown sugar-and-oatmeal crust is topped with a filling of orange marmalade and dried cherries.
Flavoured with the merest hint of orange blossom water and saffron, this apricot jam filling is an intriguing one.
Once the knack of making the brown sugar oatmeal crust is figured out, what lies within can be any number of things, and an excellent reason to go shop for all manner of luxurious jams and preserves. But frankly, my favourite thing to do is to reach for the Nutella jar! Because one can never have too many thinly veiled excuses to indulge in lashings of the stuff, this is really a number for us Nutella fiends...
Practice makes perfect, they say, and this applies as much to baking a cookie as it does to everything else one may wish to develop some semblance of proficiency at, be it playing Mozart's piano Concerto No. 15 in B-flat Major or pulling off some Nitro Circus-esque freestyle motocross double backflip. Hence the commencement of holiday-themed classes early on, because believe you me, the season will be upon us before we know it, and wouldn't it be nice to have squeezed in a couple of trial runs before the home-baked gifting begins? Anyone touched by the OCD all too well knows that one of the greatest ironies (and least-admitted truths) in life is that the appearance of effortlessness, of seemingly artless perfection, takes effort.
Anyways, before I digress too much...if only all manner of effort were as pleasurable to undertake as the effort undertaken to master a cookie recipe, I can only imagine I would be a whole lot better at a whole bunch of other things!
On the menu:
Also known as Russian Tea Cakes and Mexican Wedding Cookies, these delectable and delicate special occasion cookies, rich with butter and finely ground pecans, are the very definition of melt-in-the-mouth - most people find it virtually impossible to stop at one when it comes to these buttery morsels.
Orange Marmalade & Cherry Bars
Apricot Bars with Orange Blossom Water, Saffron & Pistachios
Nutella Bars
Sticky Date Pockets
Zesty Raisin Stuffed Cookies
Just plaster on painted ply, applied much as I would (and really, only know how) royal icing on iced cake, with piping bag and piping tip (and the occasional nudge with a clay modelling tool or two)! PS: There will be flagrant use of exclamation marks in this post, that's how surprised I am at the results! It really looks just like icing!
Not very explicit snaps - just random bits and corners of a 2300mm by 1800mm folding triptych - but I don't want to quite spoil the surprise when the thingy does become, sometime late-ish September 2009.
I like to think of the recipe pack for this class as a collection of recipes that you can mix-and-match as you fancy by tweaking the cake flavour/finish/filling/frosting/soaking syrup. That way, you get greater mileage from playing with permutations and combinations of these component recipes.
Following up on this, here's a bit more on the Bonus Section with Extra Recipes & Ideas for Other Chocolate Layer Cakes included within the recipe pack. This section includes:
Chocolate Cake Variations such as:
*Chocolate Orange Cake
*Chocolate Lemon Cake
*Chocolate Coffee Cake
*White Chocolate Buttercream using Valrhona Ivoire 35% White Chocolate. A rich and luxurious buttercream that’s the perfect foil to an intense chocolate cake. Variations on this include:
*Orange & White Chocolate Buttercream
*Lemon & White Chocolate Buttercream
*Raspberry & White Chocolate Buttercream
*Milk Chocolate Frosting using Valrhona Jivara Lactée 40% Milk Chocolate. A creamy and comforting chocolate frosting. Variation on this is:
*Mocha Frosting
*Dark Chocolate Glaze using Valrhona Equatoriale Noire 55% Dark Chocolate. A dark chocolate glaze if you prefer a silky and shiny finish
*Lemon Surprise Chocolate Cake Chocolate Lemon Cake Layers Soaked in Limoncello Syrup with Lemon Curd and Lemon & White Chocolate Buttercream
*Mocha Madness Chocolate Coffee Cake Layers Soaked in Espresso & Kahlua Syrup with Mocha Frosting
The idea behind this class was to showcase what I like to think of as a "go-to chocolate cake" - a fabulous chocolate fudge cake one can trot out time and again for every occasion and celebration. Birthday bashes, dinner parties, pot luck, teatime snack, picnics in the park...this do-it-all crowd-pleaser has it covered. A cake equally irresistible to kid and adult alike. The kind of cake fondly remembered by all who've ever tasted it and is oft-requested for said occasions and celebrations, thus making your baking life as easy breezy as could be.
That's the big idea. As for the bonus recipes (see right at the end of this post), that's a constellation of many little ideas, so if the mood should strike or the moment should call for, you can easily ring the changes by changing the finish or the filling or the frosting or the soaking syrup or the (you-get-my-drift). Having grasped the master recipes and the fundamental techniques, it's a matter of playing around with the component parts to present a - as far as your eating audience is concerned - bold and brand new chocolate cake eating experience.
For the whole idea - and I sincerely hope it sounds as empowering and liberating to you as it does to me - to have authentic value and practical application, it was decided the class lent itself best to a hands-on format.
As this is a hands-on class, each participant will be making from scratch their very own Ultimate Chocolate Fudge Cake. This comprises of 2 master recipes:
Ultra Moist & Tender Chocolate Cake An easy chocolate cake recipe with guaranteed delicious results, using a unique technique/format to ensure the most tender possible texture. The recipe features a combination of both Valrhona Equatoriale Noire 55% and Valrhona Cocoa for a full-bodied and intense chocolate flavour.
Creamy Chocolate Fudge Frosting A deep, dark & decadent chocolate fudge frosting
Each participant will then split, fill, frost and finish their handcrafted cake for taking away.
Mastering Mise-en-Place Meticulous, accurate preparation and measuring is the key to success; learn how
Layer Cake 101 How to effortlessly split, fill & frost a layer cake with professional results
In addition, I will demonstrate some of the various alternative finishes described in detail within the comprehensive recipe pack, such as:
Stippling/Swirling Using a spoon or offset palette knife to create a casual chic finish
Combing Using a fork or cake decorator’s comb to draw straight or wavy decorative lines
Gold Leaf Gilding for a luxurious finish
Writing Using chocolate to pipe a message
Chocolate Curls How to make these easy yet stunning decorations
Toasted Nuts How to finish a cake’s sides using flaked or chopped toasted nuts
Piping Using tips to pipe decorative borders and accents
Small is Beautiful Crafting miniature chocolate cakes
I'll put up a separate post about the Bonus Section with Extra Recipes & Ideas for Other Chocolate Layer Cakes included within the recipe pack. This section covers:
Chocolate Cake Variations:
*Chocolate Orange Cake
*Chocolate Lemon Cake
*Chocolate Coffee Cake
*White Chocolate Buttercream using Valrhona Ivoire 35% White Chocolate. A rich and luxurious buttercream that’s the perfect foil to an intense chocolate cake. Variations on this include:
*Orange & White Chocolate Buttercream
*Lemon & White Chocolate Buttercream
*Raspberry & White Chocolate Buttercream
*Milk Chocolate Frosting using Valrhona Jivara Lactée 40% Milk Chocolate. A creamy and comforting chocolate frosting. Variation on this is:
*Mocha Frosting
*Dark Chocolate Glaze using Valrhona Equatoriale Noire 55% Dark Chocolate. A dark chocolate glaze if you prefer a silky and shiny finish
Some complete layer cake ideas given include:
*Orange Grove Chocolate Cake Chocolate Orange Cake Layers Soaked in Cointreau Syrup with Orange Marmalade and Orange & White Chocolate Buttercream
*Lemon Surprise Chocolate Cake Chocolate Lemon Cake Layers Soaked in Limoncello Syrup with Lemon Curd and Lemon & White Chocolate Buttercream
*Framboise Chocolate Cake Layers Soaked in Framboise Syrup with Fresh Raspberries and Raspberry & White Chocolate Buttercream
*Mocha Madness Chocolate Coffee Cake Layers Soaked in Espresso & Kahlua Syrup with Mocha Frosting
I've since conquered those irrational fears of tempering, and have come to relax sufficiently to actually enjoy the process. Tempering, as therapeutic as it may be, is also a process that's best applied to relatively large quantities of chocolate. And it cannot be hurried along. So relish it as I may, I still call upon this perfectly simple (and simply perfect) formula - Look, Ma, no tempering! - time and again when I need to produce a small batch of truffles or need to produce them in a jiffy.
No need to wade through thickets of technical tempering information. No need to keep in mind the three narrow temperature ranges for melting, crystallization, and working respectively.
The absence of a crisp, prim and proper, tempered chocolate dipped coat amplifies the aspect of larger-than-life, unabashedly sensual, melt-in-the-mouthiness to these truffes au chocolat. If you're partial to this, you'll know exactly the mouthfeel and sensation I had just attempted to describe in words.
These beguiling truffes au chocolat, based on Valrhona Manjari 64%, are what I will be demonstrating at an upcoming class. Ultimate Chocolate Treats II will be held at Shermay's Cooking School on 11 April 2009 (Saturday), 12 April 2009 (Sunday), 25 April 2009 (Saturday) and 26 April 2009 (Sunday) - the April schedule has all the necessary details. For all inquiries, please call the school at +65 6479 8442 or email shermaycs@yahoo.com.sg
The master recipe also happens to be a versatile one. Variations include:
Espresso Truffles Valrhona Manjari 64% Dark Chocolate Truffles infused with Illy Espresso and Pure Coffee Extract
Tea Infused Truffles Valrhona Manjari 64% Dark Chocolate Truffles infused with Jasmine Tea or Earl Grey Tea
Orange Truffles Valrhona Manjari 64% Dark Chocolate Truffles infused with Fresh Orange and Pure Orange Extract
Peppermint Truffles Valrhona Manjari 64% Dark Chocolate Truffles infused with Mint Tea and Pure Peppermint Extract







